Wednesday 19th
written (thursday Morning at 6.30am NZ time after not much sleep) : (

At 9.30am we said goodbye to Motel Russell and went to do a few odds and sods in Russell 'town' before heading onwards to
kerikeri. We posted 5kgs home to Chichester and I also bought a print of Russell bay at dusk- which exactly resembled how we
first looked at the bay when we ate our dinner on the beach front.

The journey to Kerikeri took us back on the passenger ferry and then through Paihia, it reminded me of a cross between a
british seaside resort and somewhere in the Med. There were several things we could have done here such as see a Maori
cultural show : hakka and war dance but we continued on as it was only 32km to kerikeri. Here we briefly stopped at a Mission
house: one of the early stone settlements before finding the Parrot Place: This I would describe as an house with open
aviary and as we were shown round by the new British owner we sat with parrots and cockateils on our arms. We also walked through an
an open aivery and saw tiny baby birds, colourful finches and mini quail. Mark who wasn't feeling great- with a fully
fledged cold had never touched a parrot before but really enjoyed having the ringneck walk up and down his arm to
his shoulder then gently nibble on his ears. I had a couple of lovely cockatiels on me who were particularly into shiny
silver bangles once the attraction had worn off they were swapped for a beautiful young cockatiel who had no tail feathers as
her fancy boy cockatiel kept pulling them out!

We left and then headed on to Doubless Bay stopping only at Tatano North (Soph check spelling) where we wondered down to a
giant lake to make some butties. We then headed on to Doubtless Bay firstly to the i-site (TIC) to book a trip to Cape
Rienga and 90 mile beach and then on to Steve and Liz's.

5 minutes drive later we are in Coopers Beach/Cable Bay the view is superb and 'Cove View' does exactly what it says
on the can! A great view over this fantastic area with access within 3 minutes to the cove and a five minute drive
to Manganoui. The 2 units/lets are spacious and comfortable and their house is large, superbly positioned and inviting. It's
not difficult to see the attraction of emigrating to New Zealand, including value for money housing, incredible vistas, a
micro-climate where you pick oranges, grapefruit and lemons from your garden. The kiwis love Brits and the outdoors
lifestyle of watersports, wallking, and cook-outs is very tempting.

As the afternoon progressed we look around their house, talk Scilly, the future and how they made such a big move. This is
only inturupted by the mosty amazing fish and chips I have ever eaten, at the unsurprisingly titled 'World famous Manganoui
fish and chip shop' Now I've tried to be accommodating of Mark's particular eating requirements but thought this would be an opportunity to try something relitively normal which he likes. So I found it a bit hard to hide my dissapointment that he didn't want to try the local catch: 'Blue Nose' a
white fish similar to cod. Well, he did have one mouthful but to be honest at that point i was too involved in the soft and fluffy batter and mouthwatering fish, buttery but meaty- like the texture of john
dory with the flavour of Sea Bass, utterly gorgeous and well Marks loss, although he did say he'd order it next time.

We went back to the house with a bottle of white and chatted until bed at 11ish. We then rose early (i'd say 5ish) with
fitful dozing afterwards before getting packed up and ready to go on the Harrisons Cape Runner 90 mile beach adventure.
We said our goodbyes and promised to pass on love back to all on Scilly before heading off to meet our Bus at Kauri Kingdom
in Awanui (north of Kaitia)

Thursday 20th a full day of adventure, driving, forest and beautiful scenery.

Now if I'd seen the Harrison Cape Runner coach prior to the Mounts bay executive coach on day 1 with complimentary electric
burning aroma well I'd have kept my mouth firmly shut as when the Cape Runner pulled onto the car park of the Kauri Kingdom I
thought this coach was positively antique and looked better suited to a vintage ralley than an exasperating 150k 8hr
daily slog! Never the less this was eclipsed by the friendly tour bus driver who was like a happy, margonly cleaner version
of Fred Elms on laughing gas with the laugh of Mutley the dog! Mark and I took our seats on the right near the driver
joining a party of around 37 (crazy or stupid tourists all equally careless with their lives) for the full day adventure.

I'd originally been glad to have a day off from driving however as soon as I saw this thing I was reminded of the
airport bus,and thought that Goldie our Mazda would have been a far safer option! This was compounded as we set off
and the 'comdedic' driver started with driving jokes, such as he'd only recently got his driving licence back (ah the irony!)
then the mother- in-law jokes, honestly I was counting the minutes : )

After one more pickup we drove onto 90 mile beach which is in actual fact 68 miles long. We drove with our partner bus (an equally battered number) as the driver explained that should we get stuck in the sand it is essential that anotherbus is there to pull us out- although I'd question the capabilities of that bus too!. The beach was beautiful; wild, desolate, rugged and empty, the day was a crisp spring day with bright sunshine and a strong breeze.

The beach reminded me of Black Rock Sands in North Wales and learning to drive Dad's old Vauxhall especially when we sped past the shells of cars that had been sucked into the beach by areas of sinking sand.

The driver told us how the bus company buy old Japanese busses every four years as the pannels rust quickly with the salt wind and spray which explained the japanese no-smoking stickers. All the busses used are road busses with no alterationsfor the terrain and beach environment. He also talked fishing, sharks and more awful jokes. There were a couple of photo opportunities then we headed off-road. This is pretty much the point where the colour started to drain from Marks face. Especially when the driver explained that this was a new route which had been closed but he and his partner bus had been able to re-open it. He also said that he couldn't slow down because the sand was soft here.


As you can see we drive through swap, reeds and sand before arriving at the giant sand dunes for sand toboganning. At thispoint Mark and I jumped out for air and to get make a head start on climbing up the 250ft sand dunes. This was utterly knackering we were on all-fours climbing an almost vertical slope before leaning back and heading back down south. It was brill fun, although we only had enough time and energy to go once! After a few moments we got back on the bus and continued upto a tiny bay close to the cape for the picnic lunch which is provided. This was cheese or fruit scones, butter, crackers, juice and a fruit bar (like a nutrigrain) By leaving early the driver had ensured that all other busses were in our tracks so we got the freshest sand dunes and most untouched spots.

After lunch we headed to Cape Reinga Lighthouse the most northerly point and the point where the Tasman (the sea on the West of NZ) and the Pacific Ocean (on the East) meet. This was amazing, and although a relatively calm day it was still clear to see a meeting of the waters. Cape Reinga is sacred in maori tradition as the last place the spirits leave NZ before going North across the water and into the roots of a special tree and into the underworld. Although this is a very rough explanation of what happens there were not more details about the signifigance of the region and lots of work was being done both to improve the road and also facilities at the lighthouse.

From there we started to head south along the ST1 the main highway (although i've never seen any other motorways with junctions and unmetalised roads (there are lots of roads here described as unmetalised which are graveled.We drove through tiny settlements of no more than 300 people. The area is now mostly farmed for dairy and avacardo with some watermelon, grapefruit, orange, lemon, olive and of course sweet potato grown too. Our driver explained that around 10 yrs ago New Zealand used to be famed for its 70 million sheep, most of which which exported to the UK. However since the EEC stamped down on purchacing lamb in the region there are now only 39 million and beef stock now nearly match this number. Freesians, holsteins and Jersey herds were up there. The land reminded me in parts of shropshire, only hillier with lush forests and country roads.

Further south again and we were nearly at silica bay. A white sand bay which was in total contrast to the golden beaches on the west coast. The sand was so soft and pure white. The water inviting and warm(ish) I couldn't help but paddle. The beach was clean and deserted, the sort of place you could easily spend a day. (Its places like this which put you off tours but- then I doubt I would have found it otherwise. So better to know for next time than to miss out all together)

As we clambered back on the bus our last stop was an ice cream shop and waterstop. The bus was doing better than the passengers who all appeared to be flagging in the heat of the day and exhaused by constantly beautiful scenery. We dozed our way through more trivia, general info, fishing stories and you guessed it horrific jokes and headed back to kauri kingdom which was where we said goodbye to the cape runner and hello to goldie. As we'd arrived early we'd looked around kauri kingdom prrior to getting on our bus. The shop/ workshop is where 45,000 year old kauri (a native and protected NZ tree) is pulled out of swampland by farmers then sold to the kingdom for sculpting and working into gifts. The wood is beautiful, rich and interesting, forests are protected today so no felling can take place although there is a lot of sustainable planting taking place. The wood is soft and Mark and I saw several large scultures which were done by chainsaw as a competition and they are then sold off.

The wooden gifts are understandably expensive but beautiful. We (actually it was me- I'm weak at the best of times in shops!)decided to buy a chopping board which we could use every day and enjoy, rather than an actual display item. The centre of the kingdom is comprised of a giant kauri tree stump which has stairs through it taking you from the upper to lower shop floor, amazing, the shop oozed creativity, skill and craftsmanship even if it was a clear stop on the tourist trail.
So at 4.30pm we headed south. We were keen to get close to the kauri forest as possible and hopefully to a place called Oponui as recommended by Steve and Liz. The drive was spectacular and again we shunned the main highway quieter roads. We were often the only car and rarely did anything come the other way. Great driving conditions, and we love the road signs. Here are a few of our faves... drink drive die in a ditch, we love our children so please slow down,Heavy vehicles no engine brakes for 2km pleaseWork ends thank you

One excellent sign they do use to make up for these frankly crazy ones is a suggested (safe) speed for aproaching corners. This is really helpful.

Most roads are bendy and quite often we were driving in 3rd gear as the opportunity to get into 4th never presented itself, but we didn't care as the scenery is outstanding a geographers dream. Valleys, ridges, streams, lush forests- it seems shoocking to think that New Zealand was only discovered 200 yrs ago. I wish I'd been there with Captain Cook.

One of my favourite driving things so far is the fact you can be driving through thick moutainous Mataraua forest and then see a sign for 'ferry'. Which was exactly what I was looking for as we headed for Oponoui: I just loved the fact that it looks like last place you'd expect to see a ferry, and as we winded round bendy roads and dropped down through the Mataraua forest you then come to a clearing and look out over a gorge, with of course the expected panoramic mountainous backdrop. We arrived at 6.00ish and saw the little ferry (similar to the one that transferred us to Russell) comming across the narrows from Rawene. At that point we were the only car and enjoyed beauty of this remote spot. We drove on and settled the $16 for car plus two passengers. A couple more cars and a camper van joined us and we headed over to Rawene. 30 minutes later we drove off at Rawene and continued past white wooden churches, through small settlements and through farm land. I cannot empasise enough the beauty of the area. Steve and Liz's recommendation was surely not to dissapoint based on this. We arrived in Oponui and immeddiately found the Harmony House Backpackers, until now we had stayed in Motels and units and this was our first taste of backpackers, accommodation. I walked up to the owners house and enquired, and was shown the house, a dated homely chalet style building with panoramic views and a varanda over the straits to the sea. Stunning position. The house also slept 4 in a double and twin room with shared facilities although there were no other guests soplace was all ours. Mark was gutted not to have a TV but compramised when he found out it was only $70. Anyway with the view who needs a TV?

We headed down to the Oponoui Hotel a rustic ranch like building heaving with the local people for a bite to eat, this was a surreal experience and we stuck out like sore thumbs, never mind it was great to see real Oponoui. We ate our bar snacks then both headed back to the backpackers for bed. I was out for the count by 8.30pm!!!


Friday 21st November>

I rose early (6ish!) to the desire to take in our panoramic views, there was mist over the top of the hills on the other
side of the straits and the giant sand dunes accross the water looked fantastic. Mark dozed and I packed up our goods with
intention to make the most of the day and head to Coramandel by the evening. Our plan was to head through the second largest
forest reserve in NZ and find the Lord of The Forest. The oldest and largest kawri tree. We said goodbye to Jenni at Harmony
House at 9 and went via a Scenic view point to Morrells cafe for a hearty breakfast at 10am. Here I had a berry pancake
tower, with local honey, cream, blueberries and raspberries and Mark tucked into a full English. we were stuffed after
that, but saw a guy who'd we'd over taken cycling with loads of bags earlier on. Also there we saw a small organised group
(kings) with a Maori guide. He was telling them stories and it seemed that they too were heading to the Forest.

We followed them for another 15k to the forest then pulled in around them and headed out to the forest. The Lord of the
Forest (Tane Mahuta) stood magestically five minutes walk from the road. We walked down their first leaving the group. Our
early start meant that we were there alone surrounded only by tropical forest and the trees. Wow. As we stood in awe of the forest
Maori guide started to sing to the tree. It was really great and quite emotional. He sang in Maori so we wern't able to
tell what he said although in his commentary he spoke about from all small things great things happen. The tree is over 2000
years old, a beautiful tree almost honourable in appearance. Not tall but broard and strong. if his branches could talk?

We came back to the car in awe of the Lord, clearly moved not just by the magnitude of the tree but also the maori echos
around the forest. I was also please that the kauri forest is being protected by a raised path to protect the roots of other
trees in the area. Its clear that while New Zealanders are understandably proud of their environment they are keener to
protect it. On the way back to the car I saw some litter and picked it up. It seemed like a meager move on my part but the
only way I could show my support of this incredible forrest.

We chatted with some other visitors before heading on to the 'Four Sisters' and 'Father of the Forest' Here we walked for an
hour on a a raised path to see these trees The four sisters were four trees growing out of one stump. The Father was the
second largest tree. This time the forest walk meant you felt far more involved with the forest, it was almost like a
spiritual feeling- like being in church. The forest echoed with the sound of birds and leaves blowing in the breeze. I
looked at small kauris in their infancy and wondered whether in 2000 years they would be the next Lord or Father of the
forest. I hope they are there. Mark and I chatted with Meme and George two Americans from Boston on the way back to the car
who like us were following a similar route and were also in awe of New Zealand and the forest.

We said goodbye and continued south to Dargaville through forest roads then onto open plains. Dargville is a large sleepy
retirement settlement on the banks of the river. We intended visting the kauri museum but ended up at the Dargville museum
instead. Run by volunteers this was an eclectic mix of everything the last 200 years has produced. Dargville was named
after an Irishman who moved here and settled, making money from fruit sales and gum digging (there are gum fields near by)
The museum was room after room of antiquated display. It seemed that unlike us Brits who in our museums only exhibit the
best of an era this country with only 200 yrs of history want to displaay everything. There were glasses collections next to
boomerangs, next to model busses (Nigel you would have been in your element with all the car models!) There were uniform
collections glassware, saws, gum, a whole maritime room with radar sets, boats, bits of boats, wheels, life jackets, newspaper
cuttings, shell cases, torpedos etc. There was a whole room decidated to accordians and pianos etc. Just the most amazing
collections of everything. We loved it so much that decided not to bother with the official kauri museum since we still
couldn't find it!

We headed south on the Twin Coast discovery highway slightly dissapointed by the flat less interesting landscape of dairy
farming, both of us had easily become accustomed to driving through forest, and undulating lush hillsides. Back in Bryderwyn
we hit Aucklands friday exit traffic and soon realised that the estimations of another 4hrs to Coromandel were realistic and
that Coromandel would have to wait for another day. We settled into Waiwera a thermal settlement basically meaning 'hot
water'We got a bite to eat in Coopers Bar then intended to go and use our discount voucher in the hot spa. Unfortunately so
did half of Auckland and so we headed back to our motel with some crisps to watch James Bond!

I slept well which takes me to now. 9.15am on saturday. Our plan is to forget the Waiwera thermals and find others further
south. We will shortly get on the road and head to Hahei in Coromandel our preferred base for a couple of days to walk and
try the hot water beach! (Who needs a thermal pool!)

So until then bye for now!!! : ) xxxx

Sunday 23rd November Evening 9pm:
Tatahi Lodge Hahei

We are now firmly ensconsed in Hahei at the wooden clad Tatahi Lodge ( a cross between a motel and backpackers and a pricey
option at £120 dollars a night). This is partly because we are waiting for the car rental company to come and swap swap
goldie for something which doesnt thud when going round corners and partly down to planning our visit to the Coramandel
Peninsular and wanting a location that put us in close proximity to Cathedral Cove and Hot Water beach.

It soon became apparant as we left Waiwera and hit the ST1A and then the ST1 that we wern't the only folks heading south. NZ
is currently experience a boom with 5 million residents, and at least 1/2 of them seemed to be racing south with us. Its
permitted for over-taking on both lanes of the motorway so if your in the middle lane you can expect to see cars
hurtle past you often exceeding 100k on both sides. This was a shock to the system after the splendid isolation of
deserted open roads of the Northland.

We soon turned left for the coastal plains up to the old Gold Mining town of Thames, it was a baking hot day and Mark and I
contemplated the Miranda thermal pools but continued heading for Hahei. The roads hugged the coast and snaked around,
up and over hills and through valleys. We followed a short cut through the famous 309 road, this is a 29km shortcut
unmetalised road which took around us over an hr to complete. Mark and I had differing opinions as to the enjoyment
of this journey but we drove deep into rainforest and stopped only to walk down to a lovely waterfall. (I think I've
inherited this from my dad!!!) It was so inviting and therefore no suprise that another couple had beaten us to it and were
taking a dip in the plunge pool. We stopped to take pictures before carrying on to Hahei.


We soon found Harei and mooched round looking for somewhere to stay. Luckily our second stop was at Tatahi Lodge and we were
able to take the last room in the motel. The other motel was fully booked so it was clear that we wern't alone. We settled
in then headed to the beach to check out exactly what all the fuss was about. The beach was long, deserted and pretty
although the day's heat was fading a cool breeze was starting to whip the sea up a bit.

Mark and I walked the length of the beach then back through a nature reserve. We saw different boat trips advertised
including guided kayaking and snorkelling through to Cathedral Cove. It was a lovely area. Far more residential than Russell,
and less friendly in places, but certainly a better beach. We got some fish and chips from the most miserable chippy ever
then retired to our log cabin.

For mark a sleepless night followed as the ocupants of the next cabin checked in at 11.45pm and out at 4.30am then
other people tooed and frowed. I slept through everything and woke at 7am ready to go and explore.

Today we started with a super breakfast at Luna Cafe, then did our washing before setting off for a walk to Cathedral Cove.
Unfortunately the footpath was closed for improvements and so we ended up heading up to Whitianga. We parked our car near
Cooks Beach and the ferry landing and then went accross on another strange boating contraption. The fare this time was £2
each way and Mark was as impressed as ever with the boat handling skills of the skipper- Especially when he boaunced it of
the wharf to get her going.

5 minutes later and we are there. Whitianga is a sprawling sleepy settlement with no immediate attractions only a marina
offering big game fishing, diving shops/ kayak hire and internet facilities. There were several low quality motels and
backpackers and it becomes clear that Whitianga serves most as a touring base. We chat with a guy in a fishing shop and
talk about our impression of NZ. After a visit to the i-site we head back and return to our car.

On the way home we decide to look again at the Cathedral Cove walk as it comes highly recommended. The weather has improved
and as we look out to sea we see a haze on the horizon but the sun is shining. The temp is mid 20's and both Mark and I are
dressed for hiking in boots, jeans and t-shirts.The walk is through national park and protected forest so it looks
promising especially after the uninteresting Whitianga and frustrating access to the rest of the peninsular.

Well Wow what a walk. Just when you think it's not possible to exceed your expectations they are blown into obliteration.
The walk was absolutely incredible, utterly knackering but so worth it. We started by walking to Gemstone Bay, then headed up
the 106 steps back to the main path. We followed this with a detour to Stingray bay, then again got back on the beaten track.
Lastly we finally arrived at Cathedral Cove. A wide and long bay hinged with a large cave. At the far end of the bay there
was a rainwater waterfall that acted as a shower to clense you of the salt water after a dip. I couldn't resist and ended up
to my thighs with the uncomfortable prospect of a mega hike back to the car, but it was worth it. The water was cool
and refreshing and the beach lovely. It certainly was worth it. We also saw lots of rare birds and the crickets were rubbing
their legs with avengence.

On the way back to the motel we tested the car, confirmed there were snags (a familiar thudding noise just like I heard in by burgandy skodes before the bottom dropped out of her) the and then headed back to our Motel and
relaxed. After catching up with the owners we relaxed in our room before heading out for another walk along the beach. After
that we got some dinner in the Grange before heading home. Dinner was nice although the portions were small and Mark who ordered a lamb roast was left foraging for bread and butter when we got home.

We chatted and planned our next couple of days looking at the types of attractions and accommodation in the area as we head south.

Monday 24th 11.30am

Well we've decamped across to the backpackers where they are offering breakneck internet speeds of 512mb so no photos today folks! We are waiting for our new car to be delived from Auckland 4hrs away and so hopefully by this afternoon we will be on the road again.

Not thought about work much at all, it seems like a distant memory, and its nice to see Mark relaxing and trying new things. It was so funny last night when he ate this sweet potato because he was so hungry and there was nothing else left to eat!!!

So more soon I hope and possibly some piccies I hope.

xxx

Tuesday 18th
written (wed morning at 7.28am NZ time after an almost full nights sleep!!!!) only 2 wake ups!

Yesterday was what I'd call a mooching day. We rose lateish around 10am and sorted out our bags for the day then walked into
Russell and along the strand to the whalf. As you enter the town on the left is Pompellier House and Russell Museum.
Russell was a whaling station and also the seat of power in the Bay of Islands so the museum was really interesting and the
their pride and joy is a replica 1/5 version of the 'Endevour' the boat used by Captain Cook to discover New Zealand. She
was built 200 yrs after the discovery of NZ in only 12 weeks as part of the Cook celebrations and she toured Austrailia
and New Zealand explaining the story of Cook. She was then given to Russell as a gift at the end of the tour. Mark was
amazed that she only took 12 weeks to be built as the detail was incredible.

The museum also held a fantastic electronic photo archive of Russell through the ages, which I looked at. There were
pictures of Whaling ships in the 1800's which reminded me of Ships in Porthcressa at that time. Russell and near by Kerikeri
are also home of the Blue Marlin so there were loads of big game fishing images, both past and present.Aparently a chap
called Zane Grey was a huge big game fisherman although I think he got munched by a shark in 48 (Sophs look up when i get
home) there were two sets of sharks teeth! One from a great white and the other from a Mayo? shark.
There were also old ointment bottles, maori culture, and just loads of cool stuff.

We continued mooching looking at local galleries and shops before having a brunch in the local cafe in Traders Whalf, a tiny
shopping precinct with around 14 shops. We heard other English accents and it was clear that Russell had attracted a few
visitors that day.

The focus of the day really was the 'Explore NZ Bay of Islands Dolphin Discovery' a trip which not only we were recommended,
but gaurantees you Dolphins or the opportunity to go again for free (boatmen I see potential marketing ideas and serious
puffin similarities!!!' Our seats were booked on the 1.40 4hr afternoon trip which promised a tour of the bay of islands.
Taking in the famous hole in the rock and also a stop on one of the islands. It all sounded great. They'd just bought a new
boat and so it seemed like a super choice. As the 60 ft catermeran arrived and dwarfed the whalf (tall and wide like a mini-
channel ferry powercat) I smiled to see a maori woman at the helm Who manouvered her well. It was a fantastic breezy day
with clear blue skies. If we wern't sailing this was certainly the next best thing.

We were welcomed on board and luckily got seats on the very top deck ( there were about 50 on board, and it later transpired
that the boat can hold well over 200 ) so the seats were a lucky find. (Well I say that because at this point I still
thought I would be observing dolphins!) We got underway at around 18 knots and headed out around the bay of islands.
The scenery was beautiful, without question, I understood exactly why people thought it was like Scilly on a bigger scale.
We were sat next to some very chatty austrailians and we proceeded to look hard for dolphins as we headed out towards Cape
Brett and the Hole in the Rock.

Now I was watching Mark interact both with the environment and the boat and it was facinating, he clearly loved the beauty
the bay of islands but this was Mark doing what Mark does: boating and as he listened to the commentary he was amazed with
their perception of the weather conditions it was blowing 3-4, and they clearly felt this was near stormlike. As we
continued to the island for landing we both saw slack in the mooring strop of their tender, they attempted twice but deemed
it too unsafe!!! Mark laughed at this and then said louder than I would have liked, you could do that couldn't you babes!
'Their boat handling skills leave a lot tto be desired!

I almost offered them Marks' assistance!
So 3hrs in, conversationally exhaused by the Aussies and still no dolphins- I took the opportunnity to head down and take
a look around the boat. I went to the Wheelhouse and had a look around speaking to the skipper Phil who I have to say seemed
genuinely gutted not to have seen any dolphins. I asked him if I could bring Mark down for a look around whicch he was more
than happy for so I went back to get Mark who I thing was a smidge embarrased although it did get him away from the Aussies
for five.

We chatted with the skipper and crew for a while then headed back to Russell said goodbye to our new friends and to the possibility
of seeing Dolphins here. We walked up
to Motel Russell although en-route I did check every restaurant for a dolphin based special!

Dinner was home made butties on fresh bread in our Motel room.
We then headed down to town to use the internet connection as we'd bought some wi-fi access the previous evening.
After sending a couple of e-mails to check whether we could stay with Steve and Liz tonight we updated the blog and
checked our Bank accounts. We then headed home looked for any vouchers in our guides for the Parrot Place which we intend to
visit today en-route to heading north. And packed up our goods and chattels. We then crashed at a respectable 10pm hoping
for a good nights sleep on the comfy pillows and rock solid bed!!!

Day 4 17th 8,53pm
Russel Motel.

We said our goodbyes this morning to the Beachcomber at 10am and headed North continuing along ST1.
The weather was somewhat different to the sunshine and high temps of the previous day and we wound along
mountain roads we drove. We were however able to see the signs for the Honey Factory, and decided to call in- after all it
is, wait for it....our honeymoon!!!!
The building was a cafe/giftshop and as we made a bee-line for it! I asked the guy if there was a charge. He said not and
then we walked to the far end of the shop and saw the hives in the glass cases. There were 6 in total, each hive has one
Queen and each day the queen lays 1500 eggs. We saw how bees collect pollen turn it into honey and deposit it in the comb.
The guy even found the queen for us to see at work laying eggs. He told us about the different plants that the NZ bees work
and then there were samples of different honey to try. We bought this GORGEOUS honeycomb stuff (like the middle of Crunchy
Bars- just no chocolate and it was absolutely delicious and so nice because it was made on site. He also told us about the
difference between runny and smooth honey. His wife was English and so he loved our phrases, a lovely pit stop.

As we continued we drove through drizzle, mist, and hill fog. Untill under my
instruction we took a detour to Goat Island looking for the marine reserve, this enabled us to tour through Wenderholme
Regional park and other forests before cutting back to the ST1 at Wellsford. The roads were interesting and of course the
unique NZ signing system (which is only in some areas) meant we were meandering along untarmacked roads for longer than
anticipated. Nevermind we saw quarries, sheep farms all sorts a goldie made it!!!!.

Our next stop was at the I site (TIC) for some information on Northland and inparticular where Cable Bay was so we could
find Steve and Liz Cook. Then we headed up through Bryderwyn- I was half expecting to see Bedgelert jumping out of the
ugly cottage! and on to Waitangi. This is a large settlement we stopped for a Macdonalds for Mark. We mooched around the
shops before continuing on the ST1.

One of our favourite stops of the day came a little further on at Kawiti Gloworm Caves, just by Waiomio. As we drove past we
saw a sign that said caves and I had to investigate further. We drove up a deserted track past a house and to a car parking
area. Mark thought we were mad but we approached the kiosk and it said that the guide was currently on a tour but would be
back later. We hung on and as promised George a Moari man arrived and introduced himself and we took the tour. Todd joined
us a guy from Ontario Canada who had worked for Apple as an "tele-genius"-his words not mine! Then jacked it in to go on
the trip of a life time. He'd even bought a car which I affectionately named "Victor" the vigure for him!

The cave was 200 mt deep and as we (just the 3 of us) walked through George told us about a Moari woman who was found
living in the cave when it was first found. She had run away from her husband. We saw stalagtites and stalamites and pillar
and column formations, we saw hollow stalagtites which when tapped sound like a drum. He then asked us to look up.
And it was like a beautiful starry sky. Thousdands of Glow worm's dangling from their 'hammocks'lighting up the path.
George told us that their life span is 11 months, 9 of those in worm form then 1 month in lavae before becomming glow worm
flies.

The lights were at 80% strength so although it was very dark we could clearly see the shadows of each other. George told
also showed us "Precilla" a giant eel which lived in the small stream at the bottom of the cave. Her diet would include
dead birds which have flown into the cave, and other insects. George indicated that she was particularly partial to South
African fingers! (A rugby joke as they currently have the World Cup!)

We saw the worms close up and George talked about the importance of family. The cave is in his wifes family and he said
he was the family slave! We watched the worms produce their 'fishing lines' which are used to catch their pray and saw
the worms in lavae stages before thanking George and heading out through the cave and forest.

Todd indicated that there are many places in the North Island where you can see Gloworm Caves, although only a few major
ones are advertised, they are also very pricy to go in some are $50. For me the most memorable thing about our tour with
George was the personality of it. With only 3 of us we could stop ask questions, vocalise our awe and enjoy the tour
to the full. It was a fantastic hour and well worth the $15 each.

After that we said our goodbyes to Todd who was following a similar route to us and then headed back on to Russell our
destination. In planning I'd shunned Paihia a larger base to the Bay of Islands in favour of Russell a tiny coastal hamlet
reached by car ferry with a population of 1100.

It turned out to be a great move as Mark's eyes lit up when he saw the drive on car ferry. $11 later and 5 mins we were
across the bay and discussing why some boats had raymarine and others JRC, before we knew it we were over the hill
in and out of Russell. After we had had our inevitable acccommodation search including the Lonely Planets prefered options
we opted for Motel Russell and Joanne the owner gave us an upgraded room for $100 per night. The room while basic, is great
and will be a super base for the next couple of nights. Our next surprise came when we were settling the bill and the last
record in the guest book came from Julia McKenzie the lady who'd played the organ at our wedding!!!!

We then went to the strand in Russell to look for something to eat. Mark went for you guessed it Sausage and Chips and I
opted for a slightly more exotic Hawian Pizza. As I walked out the Pizzaria a kiwi voice shouted "Isles of Scilly"
I've been there! It turned out we'd both worked at St. Martins Hotel at the same time, although he'd lasted more than a
week!
I couldn't blinkin believe it! All these scilly surprises So he asked us to sign his wall with a graffiti tag.
Which would have been great if I could spell- under pressure I missed out the 'V' in forever- his first dislexic tagger!!!!!
Oh blinkin eck sophs!!!!!

We sat and ate our meal looking out over the jetty in a chilly breeze contemplating dolphin watching tomorrow, especially
seeing the new 4 day old calf in the pod which Joanne had told us about. Hustling at our feet were small brightly coloured
gulls more inquisative than agressive just after a bit of pizza crust. We exchanged conversation with the Supermarket staff
as they shut up shop and I thought about the sign "129km to romantic Russell" that we had passed so long ago. I decided
that this was such a great place, and so much better than the 'mini Auckland' that Joanne discribed Paihia as.

We headed back to Motel Russell happy and full.

Tuesday 18th

Day 3- 7.45am UK- 3.45pm Hong Kong TimeIn the air with Virgin!

So lets start with a recap of what happened at the end of day 1 and yesterday. We met Becky Hug, Shan and Karen at Leicester square Then walked through to a bar for a drink with Becky before getting some dinner in the Salisbury with Karen and Shan, the conversation great, it was lovely to see Becky doing London she looked fantastic and the girls really looked great. Old Oxford stories, uni days and holiday chat and both of them asked how mMrk was liking London. We talked work, holidays, houses you name it before heading back to Charing Cross and then home to our little Orange Room!

By that time I was knackered- I'd bought a pair of hugely expensive jeans (saved for though and asked for discount 10%) and was thinking ahead to the following day. The room was tiny but adequate and, had only recently opened, passed my rigerous shower grout inspection!! It was also a bargain at £40 for 2 of us I couldn't really complain.

Friday morning dawned and we checked out at 10am leaving our luggage at the hotel. We discussed seeing James Bond, but I wanted to see the tower of London so we started out with the intention to do both and get an afternoon Cinema showing.

As we surfaced at tower station on of our first sights was a garden of rememberence for those who died in WWII who had served in the Merchant Navy. In the garden was an anchor of remebrance and also a buidling (not disimilar to the Thiepval memorial in Belgium) The names of those who died were listed by ship and also by port so we were not suprised to see a ship from Penzance mastered by a Thompson on the board. Being there with Mark was particularly poigniant. I asked him whether he thought that if he had been passenger boating in the 40's whether he'd have been called to serve in some capacity or another.

There were also lots of recently layed wreaths which were a timely reminder to me that we continue such sacrifice. There werecrews from Hong Kong and Greece, Austrailia and I wondered how they felt dying for someone elses war? What would they thinkof todays wars were they ultimately proud to be serving Britain or at a loss how their ultimate sacrifice would help.

Mark and I tried to imagine boating at that time with no GPS, and Furuno and also in waters peppered with other new wrecks.My great uncle was lost at sea and this having never seen his name commemorated I found this garden both a reminder of my dissertation work in Ypres, Normandy and the Somme and also a haunting reminder that all these men had families and individual srories.

Tower of London

After a little while we moved across the road to the Tower of London- Initial thoughts this looks exciting but £16.50 to go in EACH!!!Blinkin Eck! I want to look at the crown jewels not take them home!Then, ...£4 for an audio tour!

Well after at least 4 hours how I had to eat my words- It was absolutely fantastic, Mark although concerned with the monumental journey ahead said he really enjoyed it. It helped also that we saw the Thames lifenboat in action too!As it was Prince Charles 60th birthday there was a full gun salute which we witnessed and we also joined a tour with a beefeater!!!! So in total we saw the ravens! Went around William the Concereres White Tower, Saw the roman walls of London, looked at weponry and armour from all the king and queens of England. We saw pistols, horse armour, speers, royal mint, the jewels, including the koh-in-noor? gazillions of diamonds, grafitti from those famously imprisoned, saw the glass pillow which was the site of private executions such as Anne Bolyne and and learnt so much- a really great day-which wore us out for the night ahead!

We reluctantly left the Tower and headed back to Paddington around 3ish so we could get to Heathrow early. As it happened this was an excellent Idea of Mark's as we had to re-pack some of our luggage at Terminal 3's Virgin desks.

Having checked in on-line We eventually got through 'bag drop off'and through passport control. They are understandably rigorous, and having briefed Mark to the general procedure couldn't help chuckle at his shock/surprise and general concernwhen he was asked to remove his shoes, belt and was searched.

That over we eventually got into the haven that is Duty Free. I was sorely temped by all sorts of gadgetry but also reminded that we had exceeded all luggage limits and had only enough space for a mascara!

1 1/2HRS later we went through to the departure gate before boarding our plane. An big airbus named "Sleeping Beauty". My request for extra legroom was compramised by a 6ft giant asking just after me but at least we got seats together by the window! Having missed James Bond earlier I was hoping it would be on the plane for Mark so that at least he got something he'd wanted from the day.

I felt exhausted, but pleased for Mark for whom this was another tick on his 'travel complete' list. As we taxi'ed down the runway I felt so excited by the prospect of what was ahead and I thought of all the nights at Chez Michel's which had enabled me to live out this dream adventure. I love Travel!!!!!

Mark slept through dinner so I decided it would be rude to leave food and ate both our inflight meals- which were good before dozing off (very full) to a film- unfortunately not James Bond : (
We dboth dozed fitfully before breakfast- again I ate both (Note to self- Soph eating everything is ot mandatory- even when you have paid for it!!)

After a little while we approached Hong Kong. Mark who was very impressed with the inflight Sat Nav didn't want to sit next to the window so I watched as we approached Hong Kong at 5pm was smothered in a thick industrial haze- a muggy closeness which I often associate with industrial areas. We saw small islands and huge tankers. Mark and I both thought of the journey these would make and that the next time we may see them would be in the TSS (traffic Separation Scheme) between Land's End and Scilly.

Our most memorable part of the flight was just about to happen. As we slowed right down in the final approaches of the runway we saw things up close, we hovered like a giant bird just above the water... then the pilot quickly accelerated up with a rapid accent... the passengers exchanged glances then... Over the intercom the pilot says...." Well I've never done that before!!! 16,000 hrs flying and I've never had to do an second accent,he added very calmly, we practice them every 6 months in the simulator but thats the first one!"..Moments later he added "Our cabin crew were not quite ready but we will circle again then land just after the British Airways flight, ladies and gentlemen we will be in Hong Kong shortly"

Mark then nudged me and said "I think Frazers driving "Ive never done that before boy!!! At least the pilot's honest!" I was utterly amazed- Marks first long haul flight, a double accent and he's fine, if I was ever going to complain about the grassy St. Just landing then Skybus I take it all back! Will any other flight ever be this interesting!

60 minutes later and we are through the chinese passport control and transit desks and in Hong Kong duty free! The airport is clean, efficient and modern. We only have 20 mins before boarding our Air New Zealand Jumbo but again I parked Mark and used the time take a brief look around. I expected cheap silks, and technology but the goods were quite European and each cosmetic counter was staffed by a beautifully made up oriental lady allmost doll like in appearance. I would have love to explore this city but with another 12 hr flight ahead of us and all of New Zealand to see it wasn't possible for this trip. Never mind- Mei Mei lives in Honkers so better to explore with a local- perhaps a trip to take with the girls!

So its 6.30pm Hong Kong Time and we are boarding. We enter the plane and see stairs to the upper bubble of the plane. This time there are 3 seats on each side and 4 in the middle, a huge plane and we are lucky enough to have window seats again andare by a chinese lady. Air New Zealand's economy class offers the most leg room of all the carriers and it was a welcome change to the crampt Virgin journey. (I think we were spoilt by First Great Western!!!!!)
10hrs and 3 1/2 inflight meals later (help me! I'll be needing wider seats at this rate!) We were discending for the first (and only) time over some of the most dramatic scenery and greenery I have ever seen. I asked Mark whether he wanted the window seat but he wasn't that fussed so I tried to work out what exactly I was seeing in our approach. I later learned we were flying over the Dargaville coast we passed from Hokianga Harbour to Baylys Beach. I could see a large mountain ahead and learned that it was Mt Tarinaki in the Egmont National Park. It was utterly fantastic.


Sun 16th Nov WE ARE HERE!

After a little while we passed through customs, got our passports stamped and walked through another clean, contemporary Airport. the international jet-setter in Mark commented that Auckland was a very clean and easy to use Airport. No queues, smiley helpful staff.
We eventaully picked up our car hire... a gold Mazda hatch with wait for it:- 178,450 km on the clock!!!! Although her savinggraces are a new set of tires and seemingly great brakes!! I had a chat with her and asked her to keep us safe on our adventure they gave us a book of NZ driving rules like letting traffic out at junctions but the pictures only showed red and blue cars so I'm working on the principle that it only applys to red and blue cars! The others will have to catch me first!

Both Mark and I wern't that fussed about seeing Auckland immediately and decided to head out, after taking the scenic route we ended up South east of Auckland at Piha a beautiful surfy beach. We were tired but found accommodation elusive. We did eventually find arainforest Estate which had amazing views but was fully booked for a conference.

After some heated discussion about the lack of signposts (why would you signpost a physiotherapists but not the name of the road!?) we found the ST16 a motorway which took us north to Auckland and then out to the ST1 which took us towards Whangarei as we left Aukland we saw millions of White masts and marinas.Mark and I agreed that it made falmouth look miniscule . At about 4pm NZ time (which is 13hrs ahead of us in the UK) we were both utterly done in and over the moon when we found the Beachcomber Motel in Orewa, a series of self-contained spacious units with big comfy beds and a spa bath. They are owned by a guy from Sheffield, although iwas actually too tired to be friendly and after settling $120 NZ for the room we got fish and chips and headed for bed. The road is very busy and the beach across the road looks to be popular with windsurfers and kite surfers.
What a daynight night.

Mon 17th TODay local time 4.45 am!

After catching up on some much needed sleep I am awake and ready to go. I have updated my diary and the bed was comfy although to quote Bon jovi I would sleep on a bed of nails. It is now 7.3oam and I have just run a bath but think that by turning on the spa feature I have woken up everyone who is staying here!!!I've also just used all the hot water. Might have to check out and run! Today's plan is to head up to Russel which is passedWhangarei near Paihia then stay here for a couple of days to explore. We've done some research so the rest is an adventure.
More soon

Lots of Love to all. xxxxxx

Day 1 10.15am
On the train

Well , What can I say we are on the way, had an interesting time getting off the island. After and exercise in the morning
BIH went technical and we were going to be on our way to Newquay on a Twin Otter, however lovely Merryn was able to sort
something out and we ended up heading to LE on the Islander, so after the weigh in! We were all positioned accordingly and
for the first time ever Iwasn't in the front row! I sat next to Tony who had been over working on the detal suit and he
and his friend (who looked just like Steve McDonald- from Corrie)
just loved the grass landing especially when the pilot folded in the wings!!!



Anyway we were met by Mounts Bay's most executive E reg coach which was to take us back to the heliport.

Of all the afternoon's mechanical death traps I think that the executive coach was the worst and as we came into PZ
were were suffocated not by the atmosphere of a seaside town gripped by winter but by a far more interesting and intoxicating
smell of electrical burning!! I wanted to kiss the ground at PZ Heliport!

After a quick catch up with the gorgeous BIH Becky we popped into town and dinner was in the Wetherspoons.
Mark amazed me by TRYING GAMMON!! and then further AMAZED me by liking it! I subconciously probed him and asked whether this
was just a big ploy so that he doesn't have to try anything else but he said he'd not thought of it that way!
Anyway We checked into the ultra lovely Camilla House and then went to sleep in comfortable beds humoured by the local news
which documented the excitement of the BIH Penzance exercise on the beach, which simulated a heli-crash just yards from
the airport. The feature also highlighting their unrivalled scheduled service to the IOS!!

This morning after a lovely cooked breakfast we a mad gallop round penzance doing some last minute (you will I'm sure
be surprised) admin. The weather is miserable- rainy, overcast, and generally crap definitely not flying weather so it's a
good job we left when we did. We came to the Train station which takes us to the present- just passed Truro.

To make up for the weather I think about this afternoon I will hopefully be treating myself to some fab wranglers on
Carnaby Street and helping Mark adjust to London,before dinner with the girls, and then maybe outdoor Ice Scating at the
natural history museum! (The last time I went skating outdoors was at New Year in Ypres) Can't wait.

Tommorow will be Daniel Craig, and possibly the Tower of London (if only they were together!) before Duty Free
tommorow night!!!

So until then chao for now. xxxx


11.06am Essential News!!!

Mark and I have just been upgraded to First Class!!! Big squishy seats, free tea and coffee and also a copy of the Times!
lets hope this is the theme for the next 6 weeks! (Being the classy pair we are I couldn't help but capture the moment!)


Actually Mark has just told me that its was more down to the weirdo sat opposite us in the normal body of the train but
either way I'm chuffed! I never thought I'd be pleased to be so close to the mentally disturbered (But then again they
could be getting him away from me!!!) Ooh First Great Western thank you!

Well with less than a month to go Mark and I are getting quite excited. We've watched the markets and ordered our initial currency, we've booked accommodation in London at the Easy Hotel near Paddington prior to our flights on Friday 14th, so everything is starting to come together.

We've got dinner planned with friends in London, and hope to go on the London Eye while were there, we might even try and catch a film. I've been checking out the duty-free options and looking at check-in times at Heathrow and the Terminal 3 facilities so that we can enjoy everything. The only snags have been the return of my passport photos which delay proceedures further.

So with most of the admin in hand the plan has to be to think about Mark's 30th Birthday which we will celebrate out there. He has said that he wants to see the penguins so one of the plans is to get him to get a 'back-stage pass' to so its just him and the penquins, but theres nothing set in stone as yet.

Well folks here it is the start of an epic journey, for me married life on St. Mary's Isles of Scilly but for you the diary of Mark and I's amazing adventure to New Zealand and the Cook Islands, all in 5 weeks time.

If I'm honest I have huge expectations of this trip, I want to discover things about myself, I want and need to learn about Mark to build a foundation for the next stage of life together and I desire a view from every new corner which scours our souls with distinctivness and beauty that we can remember for ever. This is a voyage of discovery, a giant gulp of adventure to quench my thirst for travel or a 4 week scratch of my itchy feet. A trip which will teach us about each other and about what it means to travel together. I hope we can make memories that I can draw on in dark times and memories which will make us smile and laugh at each other.

Will these wild expectations be exceeded? Probably not completely, but this is a sum of equals. I imagine that this is as much about what I put in personally as about what New Zealand delivers as a destination and holiday. Will the Cook islands be intoxicatingly beautiful or will we be suffocated by isolation? All questions I look forward to answering and sharing with you .

I guess this will be a combination of a diary and a journal. Some days will be simple holiday extracts other days will allow for a reflection on events.