Sunday 23 November 2008




Wednesday 19th
written (thursday Morning at 6.30am NZ time after not much sleep) : (


At 9.30am we said goodbye to Motel Russell and went to do a few odds and sods in Russell 'town' before heading onwards to
kerikeri. We posted 5kgs home to Chichester and I also bought a print of Russell bay at dusk- which exactly resembled how we
first looked at the bay when we ate our dinner on the beach front.

The journey to Kerikeri took us back on the passenger ferry and then through Paihia, it reminded me of a cross between a
british seaside resort and somewhere in the Med. There were several things we could have done here such as see a Maori
cultural show : hakka and war dance but we continued on as it was only 32km to kerikeri. Here we briefly stopped at a Mission
house: one of the early stone settlements before finding the Parrot Place: This I would describe as an house with open
aviary and as we were shown round by the new British owner we sat with parrots and cockateils on our arms. We also walked through an
an open aivery and saw tiny baby birds, colourful finches and mini quail. Mark who wasn't feeling great- with a fully
fledged cold had never touched a parrot before but really enjoyed having the ringneck walk up and down his arm to
his shoulder then gently nibble on his ears. I had a couple of lovely cockatiels on me who were particularly into shiny
silver bangles once the attraction had worn off they were swapped for a beautiful young cockatiel who had no tail feathers as
her fancy boy cockatiel kept pulling them out!

We left and then headed on to Doubless Bay stopping only at Tatano North (Soph check spelling) where we wondered down to a
giant lake to make some butties. We then headed on to Doubtless Bay firstly to the i-site (TIC) to book a trip to Cape
Rienga and 90 mile beach and then on to Steve and Liz's.

5 minutes drive later we are in Coopers Beach/Cable Bay the view is superb and 'Cove View' does exactly what it says
on the can! A great view over this fantastic area with access within 3 minutes to the cove and a five minute drive
to Manganoui. The 2 units/lets are spacious and comfortable and their house is large, superbly positioned and inviting. It's
not difficult to see the attraction of emigrating to New Zealand, including value for money housing, incredible vistas, a
micro-climate where you pick oranges, grapefruit and lemons from your garden. The kiwis love Brits and the outdoors
lifestyle of watersports, wallking, and cook-outs is very tempting.

As the afternoon progressed we look around their house, talk Scilly, the future and how they made such a big move. This is
only inturupted by the mosty amazing fish and chips I have ever eaten, at the unsurprisingly titled 'World famous Manganoui
fish and chip shop' Now I've tried to be accommodating of Mark's particular eating requirements but thought this would be an opportunity to try something relitively normal which he likes. So I found it a bit hard to hide my dissapointment that he didn't want to try the local catch: 'Blue Nose' a
white fish similar to cod. Well, he did have one mouthful but to be honest at that point i was too involved in the soft and fluffy batter and mouthwatering fish, buttery but meaty- like the texture of john
dory with the flavour of Sea Bass, utterly gorgeous and well Marks loss, although he did say he'd order it next time.

We went back to the house with a bottle of white and chatted until bed at 11ish. We then rose early (i'd say 5ish) with
fitful dozing afterwards before getting packed up and ready to go on the Harrisons Cape Runner 90 mile beach adventure.
We said our goodbyes and promised to pass on love back to all on Scilly before heading off to meet our Bus at Kauri Kingdom
in Awanui (north of Kaitia)

Thursday 20th a full day of adventure, driving, forest and beautiful scenery.

Now if I'd seen the Harrison Cape Runner coach prior to the Mounts bay executive coach on day 1 with complimentary electric
burning aroma well I'd have kept my mouth firmly shut as when the Cape Runner pulled onto the car park of the Kauri Kingdom I
thought this coach was positively antique and looked better suited to a vintage ralley than an exasperating 150k 8hr
daily slog! Never the less this was eclipsed by the friendly tour bus driver who was like a happy, margonly cleaner version
of Fred Elms on laughing gas with the laugh of Mutley the dog! Mark and I took our seats on the right near the driver
joining a party of around 37 (crazy or stupid tourists all equally careless with their lives) for the full day adventure.

I'd originally been glad to have a day off from driving however as soon as I saw this thing I was reminded of the
airport bus,and thought that Goldie our Mazda would have been a far safer option! This was compounded as we set off
and the 'comdedic' driver started with driving jokes, such as he'd only recently got his driving licence back (ah the irony!)
then the mother- in-law jokes, honestly I was counting the minutes : )




After one more pickup we drove onto 90 mile beach which is in actual fact 68 miles long. We drove with our partner bus (an equally battered number) as the driver explained that should we get stuck in the sand it is essential that anotherbus is there to pull us out- although I'd question the capabilities of that bus too!. The beach was beautiful; wild, desolate, rugged and empty, the day was a crisp spring day with bright sunshine and a strong breeze.

The beach reminded me of Black Rock Sands in North Wales and learning to drive Dad's old Vauxhall especially when we sped past the shells of cars that had been sucked into the beach by areas of sinking sand.

The driver told us how the bus company buy old Japanese busses every four years as the pannels rust quickly with the salt wind and spray which explained the japanese no-smoking stickers. All the busses used are road busses with no alterationsfor the terrain and beach environment. He also talked fishing, sharks and more awful jokes. There were a couple of photo opportunities then we headed off-road. This is pretty much the point where the colour started to drain from Marks face. Especially when the driver explained that this was a new route which had been closed but he and his partner bus had been able to re-open it. He also said that he couldn't slow down because the sand was soft here.


As you can see we drive through swap, reeds and sand before arriving at the giant sand dunes for sand toboganning. At thispoint Mark and I jumped out for air and to get make a head start on climbing up the 250ft sand dunes. This was utterly knackering we were on all-fours climbing an almost vertical slope before leaning back and heading back down south. It was brill fun, although we only had enough time and energy to go once! After a few moments we got back on the bus and continued upto a tiny bay close to the cape for the picnic lunch which is provided. This was cheese or fruit scones, butter, crackers, juice and a fruit bar (like a nutrigrain) By leaving early the driver had ensured that all other busses were in our tracks so we got the freshest sand dunes and most untouched spots.

After lunch we headed to Cape Reinga Lighthouse the most northerly point and the point where the Tasman (the sea on the West of NZ) and the Pacific Ocean (on the East) meet. This was amazing, and although a relatively calm day it was still clear to see a meeting of the waters. Cape Reinga is sacred in maori tradition as the last place the spirits leave NZ before going North across the water and into the roots of a special tree and into the underworld. Although this is a very rough explanation of what happens there were not more details about the signifigance of the region and lots of work was being done both to improve the road and also facilities at the lighthouse.

From there we started to head south along the ST1 the main highway (although i've never seen any other motorways with junctions and unmetalised roads (there are lots of roads here described as unmetalised which are graveled.We drove through tiny settlements of no more than 300 people. The area is now mostly farmed for dairy and avacardo with some watermelon, grapefruit, orange, lemon, olive and of course sweet potato grown too. Our driver explained that around 10 yrs ago New Zealand used to be famed for its 70 million sheep, most of which which exported to the UK. However since the EEC stamped down on purchacing lamb in the region there are now only 39 million and beef stock now nearly match this number. Freesians, holsteins and Jersey herds were up there. The land reminded me in parts of shropshire, only hillier with lush forests and country roads.

Further south again and we were nearly at silica bay. A white sand bay which was in total contrast to the golden beaches on the west coast. The sand was so soft and pure white. The water inviting and warm(ish) I couldn't help but paddle. The beach was clean and deserted, the sort of place you could easily spend a day. (Its places like this which put you off tours but- then I doubt I would have found it otherwise. So better to know for next time than to miss out all together)

As we clambered back on the bus our last stop was an ice cream shop and waterstop. The bus was doing better than the passengers who all appeared to be flagging in the heat of the day and exhaused by constantly beautiful scenery. We dozed our way through more trivia, general info, fishing stories and you guessed it horrific jokes and headed back to kauri kingdom which was where we said goodbye to the cape runner and hello to goldie. As we'd arrived early we'd looked around kauri kingdom prrior to getting on our bus. The shop/ workshop is where 45,000 year old kauri (a native and protected NZ tree) is pulled out of swampland by farmers then sold to the kingdom for sculpting and working into gifts. The wood is beautiful, rich and interesting, forests are protected today so no felling can take place although there is a lot of sustainable planting taking place. The wood is soft and Mark and I saw several large scultures which were done by chainsaw as a competition and they are then sold off.

The wooden gifts are understandably expensive but beautiful. We (actually it was me- I'm weak at the best of times in shops!)decided to buy a chopping board which we could use every day and enjoy, rather than an actual display item. The centre of the kingdom is comprised of a giant kauri tree stump which has stairs through it taking you from the upper to lower shop floor, amazing, the shop oozed creativity, skill and craftsmanship even if it was a clear stop on the tourist trail.
So at 4.30pm we headed south. We were keen to get close to the kauri forest as possible and hopefully to a place called Oponui as recommended by Steve and Liz. The drive was spectacular and again we shunned the main highway quieter roads. We were often the only car and rarely did anything come the other way. Great driving conditions, and we love the road signs. Here are a few of our faves... drink drive die in a ditch, we love our children so please slow down,Heavy vehicles no engine brakes for 2km pleaseWork ends thank you

One excellent sign they do use to make up for these frankly crazy ones is a suggested (safe) speed for aproaching corners. This is really helpful.

Most roads are bendy and quite often we were driving in 3rd gear as the opportunity to get into 4th never presented itself, but we didn't care as the scenery is outstanding a geographers dream. Valleys, ridges, streams, lush forests- it seems shoocking to think that New Zealand was only discovered 200 yrs ago. I wish I'd been there with Captain Cook.

One of my favourite driving things so far is the fact you can be driving through thick moutainous Mataraua forest and then see a sign for 'ferry'. Which was exactly what I was looking for as we headed for Oponoui: I just loved the fact that it looks like last place you'd expect to see a ferry, and as we winded round bendy roads and dropped down through the Mataraua forest you then come to a clearing and look out over a gorge, with of course the expected panoramic mountainous backdrop. We arrived at 6.00ish and saw the little ferry (similar to the one that transferred us to Russell) comming across the narrows from Rawene. At that point we were the only car and enjoyed beauty of this remote spot. We drove on and settled the $16 for car plus two passengers. A couple more cars and a camper van joined us and we headed over to Rawene. 30 minutes later we drove off at Rawene and continued past white wooden churches, through small settlements and through farm land. I cannot empasise enough the beauty of the area. Steve and Liz's recommendation was surely not to dissapoint based on this. We arrived in Oponui and immeddiately found the Harmony House Backpackers, until now we had stayed in Motels and units and this was our first taste of backpackers, accommodation. I walked up to the owners house and enquired, and was shown the house, a dated homely chalet style building with panoramic views and a varanda over the straits to the sea. Stunning position. The house also slept 4 in a double and twin room with shared facilities although there were no other guests soplace was all ours. Mark was gutted not to have a TV but compramised when he found out it was only $70. Anyway with the view who needs a TV?

We headed down to the Oponoui Hotel a rustic ranch like building heaving with the local people for a bite to eat, this was a surreal experience and we stuck out like sore thumbs, never mind it was great to see real Oponoui. We ate our bar snacks then both headed back to the backpackers for bed. I was out for the count by 8.30pm!!!


Friday 21st November>

I rose early (6ish!) to the desire to take in our panoramic views, there was mist over the top of the hills on the other
side of the straits and the giant sand dunes accross the water looked fantastic. Mark dozed and I packed up our goods with
intention to make the most of the day and head to Coramandel by the evening. Our plan was to head through the second largest
forest reserve in NZ and find the Lord of The Forest. The oldest and largest kawri tree. We said goodbye to Jenni at Harmony
House at 9 and went via a Scenic view point to Morrells cafe for a hearty breakfast at 10am. Here I had a berry pancake
tower, with local honey, cream, blueberries and raspberries and Mark tucked into a full English. we were stuffed after
that, but saw a guy who'd we'd over taken cycling with loads of bags earlier on. Also there we saw a small organised group
(kings) with a Maori guide. He was telling them stories and it seemed that they too were heading to the Forest.

We followed them for another 15k to the forest then pulled in around them and headed out to the forest. The Lord of the
Forest (Tane Mahuta) stood magestically five minutes walk from the road. We walked down their first leaving the group. Our
early start meant that we were there alone surrounded only by tropical forest and the trees. Wow. As we stood in awe of the forest
Maori guide started to sing to the tree. It was really great and quite emotional. He sang in Maori so we wern't able to
tell what he said although in his commentary he spoke about from all small things great things happen. The tree is over 2000
years old, a beautiful tree almost honourable in appearance. Not tall but broard and strong. if his branches could talk?

We came back to the car in awe of the Lord, clearly moved not just by the magnitude of the tree but also the maori echos
around the forest. I was also please that the kauri forest is being protected by a raised path to protect the roots of other
trees in the area. Its clear that while New Zealanders are understandably proud of their environment they are keener to
protect it. On the way back to the car I saw some litter and picked it up. It seemed like a meager move on my part but the
only way I could show my support of this incredible forrest.

We chatted with some other visitors before heading on to the 'Four Sisters' and 'Father of the Forest' Here we walked for an
hour on a a raised path to see these trees The four sisters were four trees growing out of one stump. The Father was the
second largest tree. This time the forest walk meant you felt far more involved with the forest, it was almost like a
spiritual feeling- like being in church. The forest echoed with the sound of birds and leaves blowing in the breeze. I
looked at small kauris in their infancy and wondered whether in 2000 years they would be the next Lord or Father of the
forest. I hope they are there. Mark and I chatted with Meme and George two Americans from Boston on the way back to the car
who like us were following a similar route and were also in awe of New Zealand and the forest.

We said goodbye and continued south to Dargaville through forest roads then onto open plains. Dargville is a large sleepy
retirement settlement on the banks of the river. We intended visting the kauri museum but ended up at the Dargville museum
instead. Run by volunteers this was an eclectic mix of everything the last 200 years has produced. Dargville was named
after an Irishman who moved here and settled, making money from fruit sales and gum digging (there are gum fields near by)
The museum was room after room of antiquated display. It seemed that unlike us Brits who in our museums only exhibit the
best of an era this country with only 200 yrs of history want to displaay everything. There were glasses collections next to
boomerangs, next to model busses (Nigel you would have been in your element with all the car models!) There were uniform
collections glassware, saws, gum, a whole maritime room with radar sets, boats, bits of boats, wheels, life jackets, newspaper
cuttings, shell cases, torpedos etc. There was a whole room decidated to accordians and pianos etc. Just the most amazing
collections of everything. We loved it so much that decided not to bother with the official kauri museum since we still
couldn't find it!

We headed south on the Twin Coast discovery highway slightly dissapointed by the flat less interesting landscape of dairy
farming, both of us had easily become accustomed to driving through forest, and undulating lush hillsides. Back in Bryderwyn
we hit Aucklands friday exit traffic and soon realised that the estimations of another 4hrs to Coromandel were realistic and
that Coromandel would have to wait for another day. We settled into Waiwera a thermal settlement basically meaning 'hot
water'We got a bite to eat in Coopers Bar then intended to go and use our discount voucher in the hot spa. Unfortunately so
did half of Auckland and so we headed back to our motel with some crisps to watch James Bond!

I slept well which takes me to now. 9.15am on saturday. Our plan is to forget the Waiwera thermals and find others further
south. We will shortly get on the road and head to Hahei in Coromandel our preferred base for a couple of days to walk and
try the hot water beach! (Who needs a thermal pool!)

So until then bye for now!!! : ) xxxx

Sunday 23rd November Evening 9pm:
Tatahi Lodge Hahei


We are now firmly ensconsed in Hahei at the wooden clad Tatahi Lodge ( a cross between a motel and backpackers and a pricey
option at £120 dollars a night). This is partly because we are waiting for the car rental company to come and swap swap
goldie for something which doesnt thud when going round corners and partly down to planning our visit to the Coramandel
Peninsular and wanting a location that put us in close proximity to Cathedral Cove and Hot Water beach.

It soon became apparant as we left Waiwera and hit the ST1A and then the ST1 that we wern't the only folks heading south. NZ
is currently experience a boom with 5 million residents, and at least 1/2 of them seemed to be racing south with us. Its
permitted for over-taking on both lanes of the motorway so if your in the middle lane you can expect to see cars
hurtle past you often exceeding 100k on both sides. This was a shock to the system after the splendid isolation of
deserted open roads of the Northland.

We soon turned left for the coastal plains up to the old Gold Mining town of Thames, it was a baking hot day and Mark and I
contemplated the Miranda thermal pools but continued heading for Hahei. The roads hugged the coast and snaked around,
up and over hills and through valleys. We followed a short cut through the famous 309 road, this is a 29km shortcut
unmetalised road which took around us over an hr to complete. Mark and I had differing opinions as to the enjoyment
of this journey but we drove deep into rainforest and stopped only to walk down to a lovely waterfall. (I think I've
inherited this from my dad!!!) It was so inviting and therefore no suprise that another couple had beaten us to it and were
taking a dip in the plunge pool. We stopped to take pictures before carrying on to Hahei.


We soon found Harei and mooched round looking for somewhere to stay. Luckily our second stop was at Tatahi Lodge and we were
able to take the last room in the motel. The other motel was fully booked so it was clear that we wern't alone. We settled
in then headed to the beach to check out exactly what all the fuss was about. The beach was long, deserted and pretty
although the day's heat was fading a cool breeze was starting to whip the sea up a bit.

Mark and I walked the length of the beach then back through a nature reserve. We saw different boat trips advertised
including guided kayaking and snorkelling through to Cathedral Cove. It was a lovely area. Far more residential than Russell,
and less friendly in places, but certainly a better beach. We got some fish and chips from the most miserable chippy ever
then retired to our log cabin.

For mark a sleepless night followed as the ocupants of the next cabin checked in at 11.45pm and out at 4.30am then
other people tooed and frowed. I slept through everything and woke at 7am ready to go and explore.

Today we started with a super breakfast at Luna Cafe, then did our washing before setting off for a walk to Cathedral Cove.
Unfortunately the footpath was closed for improvements and so we ended up heading up to Whitianga. We parked our car near
Cooks Beach and the ferry landing and then went accross on another strange boating contraption. The fare this time was £2
each way and Mark was as impressed as ever with the boat handling skills of the skipper- Especially when he boaunced it of
the wharf to get her going.

5 minutes later and we are there. Whitianga is a sprawling sleepy settlement with no immediate attractions only a marina
offering big game fishing, diving shops/ kayak hire and internet facilities. There were several low quality motels and
backpackers and it becomes clear that Whitianga serves most as a touring base. We chat with a guy in a fishing shop and
talk about our impression of NZ. After a visit to the i-site we head back and return to our car.

On the way home we decide to look again at the Cathedral Cove walk as it comes highly recommended. The weather has improved
and as we look out to sea we see a haze on the horizon but the sun is shining. The temp is mid 20's and both Mark and I are
dressed for hiking in boots, jeans and t-shirts.The walk is through national park and protected forest so it looks
promising especially after the uninteresting Whitianga and frustrating access to the rest of the peninsular.

Well Wow what a walk. Just when you think it's not possible to exceed your expectations they are blown into obliteration.
The walk was absolutely incredible, utterly knackering but so worth it. We started by walking to Gemstone Bay, then headed up
the 106 steps back to the main path. We followed this with a detour to Stingray bay, then again got back on the beaten track.
Lastly we finally arrived at Cathedral Cove. A wide and long bay hinged with a large cave. At the far end of the bay there
was a rainwater waterfall that acted as a shower to clense you of the salt water after a dip. I couldn't resist and ended up
to my thighs with the uncomfortable prospect of a mega hike back to the car, but it was worth it. The water was cool
and refreshing and the beach lovely. It certainly was worth it. We also saw lots of rare birds and the crickets were rubbing
their legs with avengence.

On the way back to the motel we tested the car, confirmed there were snags (a familiar thudding noise just like I heard in by burgandy skodes before the bottom dropped out of her) the and then headed back to our Motel and
relaxed. After catching up with the owners we relaxed in our room before heading out for another walk along the beach. After
that we got some dinner in the Grange before heading home. Dinner was nice although the portions were small and Mark who ordered a lamb roast was left foraging for bread and butter when we got home.

We chatted and planned our next couple of days looking at the types of attractions and accommodation in the area as we head south.

Monday 24th 11.30am

Well we've decamped across to the backpackers where they are offering breakneck internet speeds of 512mb so no photos today folks! We are waiting for our new car to be delived from Auckland 4hrs away and so hopefully by this afternoon we will be on the road again.

Not thought about work much at all, it seems like a distant memory, and its nice to see Mark relaxing and trying new things. It was so funny last night when he ate this sweet potato because he was so hungry and there was nothing else left to eat!!!

So more soon I hope and possibly some piccies I hope.

xxx

1 comment:

Dad & Ann said...

Yo Both
I suspect you are your father's daughter - I was reading this at 5.30am GMT cos I couldn't sleep. However it was great fun - I printed it off and then went onto Google earth and tracked your progress, so for example I have seen the Lord of the Forest and been astounded by Cathedral Bay. It is also a test of GE's ingenuity as your spelling of Maori placenames will somwetimes havwe me spinning off to Texas or Maryland!!! Ann was greeted this morning by a cup of tea and the latest edition of your saga. We both so hope that you are revelling in the experience with so much more to come. It is lovely heer but we don't mind admitting to a little touch of envy. Has Goldie been replaced by Greenie or blackie and are you taking this car onto South Island?
Keep it coming................
Lots of love
Dad & Ann xxxx